The Image Counsellor

Archive for March 2009

Q: I have never used makeup before, how should I cleaned it off?

A: 72d6ccecc27c370eThe process of cleansing might take just a few minutes longer than the usual water and facial cleanser. Makeup artists will usually put on cream foundation for you which will last throughout the day, hence it’s tougher to clean off. What you can do is to purchase an additional makeup remover especially for eyes and lips. These are delicate areas on the face, be exceptionally careful because of the fine lines that we can create from rubbing too hard against the skin.

For studio or outdoor shoots, artists will apply water proof mascara for you. It’s another challenging task for you if you have no idea how to remove makeup. There are waterproof makeup in the market which usually come in water in oil form (oil forming the higher component in the ingredient) that cleans off eye makeup easily. However buyers beware! Products with too much oil in the ingredient might cause oil seeds also known as milia seeds. Once formed, they might be difficult to remove. Believe me because I have experienced it before when I simply borrowed a “reknown” brand of remover and 1 tiny seed formed almost immediately! I would prefer water base cleansing products for the eyes.

Apply some remover onto the cotton pads. Instead of immediately rubbing the lotion onto the skin, soaks the makeup for about 30seconds and gentle glide. Do not drag the skin. Use a Q-tip to remove the mascara off the lashes and on the skin. Same goes for the lips.

 Use the Q-tip to clean between the lines on the lips. After the first cleansing for the makeup, there are usually traces of the cleanser or makeup on the skin. I would do double cleansing with my normal cleanser to make sure everything is gone. To relax my face after a long day, I would apply a moisturizing mask.

Do you have flaws on the skin which simply cannot be covered by a beige concealer? Colour correction can be quite a  good skill to acquire if you would like to makeup your flaws disappear in an instant!

White – Bring forward shadows caused by aging.2451735204_2c48e959bf

Apricot/Peach/Yellow – Highlight eyes and can be used for concealing under blue veins under the eyes, bruises or dark spots caused by aging.

Green – Correct redness such as pimples.

Light Pink/Pink – Tone down pigments on light to medium skin and brightens eye area.

Rose – For redness on deeper skin tone.

Lavender – Sallow skin. Tends to look very yellowish.

Blue – For redness for medium to light skin tone.

Photo from Flickr

0210pfeiffer1881Our face loses its elasticity as we age. Fine lines and eye bags are formed… Yes, it sounds scary but it’s true. I have done makeup for mature ladies especially wedding dinner. Some important tips to take home when you slap on any makeup: 

PREP YOUR SKIN with moisturisers. Gel or Creamy face moisturisers are fine. Worse come to worse, use a light oil such as rose hip oil to prep your skin. Give it time to set. Eye area just use light eye gel. We do not want the colour to run.

Must Haves!

1) Light diffusing primer and creamy foundation to create a smooth textured face.

2) Sheer loose powder for that polished look. Too much 2-way cake will enhance the lines!

3) Yellow base, light diffusing concealer for the eye areas. Be light-handed on that. Do not apply too much concealer otherwise it will look too artificial.

My advice to you is to be light-handed. Age gracefully!

A few of my young customers have been asking me about drawing smoky kira_naytli1eyes. If you were to do this, please ensure that you have created a flawless base especially concealer under the eyes so that you would look polished. For beginners, use a light colour such as copper or bronze before you use deeper colours like black or dark navy. Usually smoky eyes are meant for evenings functions, however more youngsters are wearing it in the day as a fashion statement. It’s your choice.

– To ensure that your eye makeup stays throughout the evening, use a primer or base on the eyelids. Then put some loose powder underneathe the eyes so as to catch the excess eye shadow colours.

– Use a  liner  to trace your eyes (top and bottom), then smudge with a cotton bud.Use an eyeshadow of your choice to blend from the upper liner to your eye crease. Starting from the outer end, move inwards.

– Then depending on how much shadow you want to put at the bottom, apply some at the outer corner of the eye (1/3) then blend and move inwards to cover the whole bottom liner.

– Dust off the excess powder and shadow under the eyes. And clean the rough edges of the eye shadow with a cotton bud.

– To add some spice to your smoky eye, add some shimmer on the eye shadow but use sparingly!

– A strong brow should match the eyes.

– Your choice of lipstick is very important to complete the look! Pale Nude creates a mysterious look, dark lips and eyes gives a gothic feel. Explore and enjoy!

Makeup should compliment or coordinate with the mood, atmosphere and style. Your objective is to achieve a balance in the final production.

Factors affecting photography makeup:

1.      Product portrayed – What is it that you are trying to sell

2.      Location – Indoors or outdoor

3.      Style of photography – Romantic, dramatic, futuristic, etc

4.      Age of model – Youthful or mature

5.      Colours – Natural or multi-colours

6.      Lighting – White or yellow

7.      Hair – Styling

8.      Clothes – Coordination of overall look

9.      Backdrop and props – Fabric or paper and subjects of interests

Try using the items below to enhance your makeup:

1.      Colour corrector – For concealing shadows

2.      Shader/Highlighter – To create a 3-D effect

3.      Fake Lashes – Enlarges the eyes

Your skills are put to the test for photography makeup when there is minimal digital enhancement.

Tips:

1.      Concealing, shading and highlighting should be subtle and well blended

2.      Foundation colour has to match the skin tone

3.      Remove excess power to avoid a cakey finish

4.      Avoid any hard lines for eye shadows and blushers

eyelid_droopyDroopy (heavy) eyelids before and after makeup

Upper eyelid drooping can caused by:

– Too much fat and skin in the upper lids

– Lost of elasticity of eyelid muscles causing droppy brows and lids

– Over-stretching or tear of the eyelid muscles

Most asians do not have very deep set eyes so it’s important to create contours around the eye area. The tips below offer simple ways to “lift” droopy lids. Practise is the key!

To rectify the situation:

– Use a highlighter (off-white or champagne) on the brow bone area especially below the inner corner of the brows.

– Use a medium eye shadow (for a start) on the outer1/3 corner of the eye and sweep upwards like a bird spreading it’s wing. Do not sweep the colour too high otherwise you will look like a vixen. Make sure the shadow on both sides are balanced.

– Focus a liner on the inner lash line rather than the outer corner which will emphaise on the droopiness.

– Finish by applying mascara on the outer upper and lower corner lashes. Read  Lashes for more information.

Photos extract: profaces.com

Single eye-lids can look sexy with these few tips:

Ladies with single lids can enhance their eyes with a thick liner. A darker eye shadow can help to create an illusion of double lids. Look at Sandra Oh from The Grey’s Anatomy. She would appear with smoky looking eyes at red carpets events too.

Fake it. Use a double eye-lid tape or glue. This requires some practice to make the new lid look natural. It can do wonders.  Alternatively, use a dark brown eye-liner and draw your own double lid and use a natural colour (shell) over the lid line.

Enhance your lids with dramatic lashes. Cut the lashes according to the length of your eyes. If you want to elongate your eyes, stick a thicker layer of lash at the end of the lashline. To make it bigger, more in the centre.

oh-its-sandra

Tags: